Isaan: Lao kinship and the sound of the Northeast

Isaan, the Northeast, holds about a third of Thailand's people, and most of them speak a language very close to Lao at home. The region and Laos share sticky rice, ส้มตำ, ลาบ, the แคน and the music of หมอลำ. For decades, Isaan people have moved to Bangkok and abroad for work, so you'll hear Isaan in taxis, on building sites, at som tam stalls and in luk thung songs about missing home. Speaking a few words, such as แซ่บอีหลี or ขอบใจเด้อ, gets a delighted reaction. Avoid calling Isaan people ลาว as a label; it has been used as a put-down. Let people say how they identify.