ปลาร้า: the smell of home for Isan

Ask for ส้มตำ and the cook may ask ใส่ปลาร้าไหม. ปลาร้า is fish fermented with salt and rice bran for months, and its smell is powerful. For millions of people from อีสาน, the north-east, it is the taste of home: it seasons papaya salad, curries and dips, the way cheese or fish sauce does elsewhere. Many Bangkok workers come from Isan, so ปลาร้า is everywhere, from street carts to bottled brands promoted by pop stars. If you're curious, start with a small amount; if not, ส้มตำไทย has none. Either way, don't wrinkle your nose at it in front of the cook. Saying แซ่บ after trying it will make their day.